Fettuccine with Classic Bolognese, Crispy Pangrattato, and Parmesan

Dice the onion, carrot, and celery into a fine, even brunoise about 5mm (about 1/4 inch) across. Finely dice the pancetta if using. Combine the ground beef and pork in a bowl and keep cold until needed.

Warm the olive oil and butter in a heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat (about 160°C/320°F) until the butter foams. Add the pancetta and render gently for 3 minutes until its fat begins to turn translucent.

Add the diced onion, carrot, and celery to the pot. Cook over medium-low heat (about 140°C/285°F) for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are soft, sweet, and just beginning to take on color at the edges.

Add the cold ground meats to the pot. Break them up with a wooden spoon and cook over medium-high heat (about 190°C/375°F) for 8 to 10 minutes, until all liquid has evaporated and the meat is well browned with crispy edges. The internal temperature should reach 71°C (160°F) for food safety.

Pour in the white wine and use a wooden spoon to scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of the pot. Simmer for 3 minutes until the wine has almost completely reduced and the raw alcohol smell has cooked off.

Stir in the tomato paste and cook for 2 minutes, pressing it into the meat mixture until it darkens to a brick red and smells toasted. Add the crushed tomatoes and stir to combine.

Pour in the milk, add the bay leaf, a small grating of nutmeg, and a generous pinch of salt and pepper. Bring to a gentle simmer, then reduce the heat to the lowest setting.

Partially cover the pot and simmer very gently at about 85°C (185°F) for 2 hours, stirring every 20 minutes to prevent sticking. The sauce should barely bubble; adjust the heat as needed. Add a splash of water if the sauce tightens too much.

While the sauce simmers, prepare the pangrattato. Pulse the stale bread in a food processor or grate by hand into coarse crumbs. Heat the olive oil in a small skillet over medium heat (about 170°C/340°F), add the garlic and cook 30 seconds until fragrant but not browned, then add the breadcrumbs.

Toast the breadcrumbs for 5 to 7 minutes, stirring frequently, until deeply golden and crisp. Off the heat, stir in the lemon zest and chopped parsley. Transfer to a plate to cool completely.

Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil (100°C/212°F), salt it generously (about 15g salt per liter so it tastes like the sea), and cook the fresh fettuccine for 2 to 3 minutes, or dried fettuccine for the package time minus 1 minute, until al dente. Reserve 200ml of pasta water before draining.

Drop the drained pasta directly into the pot of sauce along with a ladle of the reserved pasta water. Stir vigorously over low heat (about 90°C/195°F) for 1 minute until the sauce clings to every ribbon in a glossy emulsion. Loosen with more pasta water as needed.

Divide the pasta among warm plates, twirling into nests with tongs. Spoon a little extra sauce over the top, scatter generously with pangrattato, and finish with a heavy grating of Parmigiano-Reggiano and a crack of black pepper. Serve immediately.