Equipment
Ingredients
Goose and Broth Infusion
- 400 g boneless skinless goose leg meat, diced into 1.5 cm cubes
- 30 g rendered goose fat, divided into two 15g portions
- 1200 ml poultry stock, liquid, unsalted or low-sodium
- 20 g dried porcini mushrooms, dried whole pieces
- 2 fresh rosemary, whole sprigs
- 4 fresh thyme, whole sprigs
- 6 g fine sea salt, divided
- 2 g black pepper, freshly ground and divided
Sautéed Mushrooms
- 250 g cremini mushrooms, cleaned and sliced 5 mm thick
- 15 ml olive oil, liquid
- 2 garlic, peeled and finely minced
Risotto Base and Mantecatura
- 320 g carnaroli rice, dry and unwashed
- 2 shallot, peeled and finely minced
- 120 ml dry white wine
- 45 g unsalted butter, chilled and cut into 1 cm cubes
- 50 g parmigiano reggiano cheese, finely grated
- 15 g fresh flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
Nutrition (per serving)
Nutrition is estimated per serving. Nutrients without complete source data are omitted.
Full nutrition
- Calories
- 854 kcal
- Protein
- 44 g
- Carbohydrates
- 87 g
- Fat
- 35 g
- Fiber
- 3 g
- Sodium
- 1260 mg
- Saturated Fat
- 14 g
- Potassium
- 1265 mg
- Calcium
- 211 mg
- Iron
- 6.8 mg
- Magnesium
- 79 mg
- Phosphorus
- 641 mg
- Zinc
- 5.0 mg
- Vitamin A
- 138 mcg
- Vitamin C
- 16 mg
- Water
- 426 g
Sources: Aggregated Public Data, USDA FoodData Central
Method
Place dried porcini mushrooms in a heatproof bowl, pour 200 ml of boiling water over them, and allow them to soak undisturbed for 20 minutes until completely tender.
Pour the soaked porcini through a fine-mesh sieve set over a medium saucepan to capture the flavorful steeping liquid, leaving any sandy sediment in the bowl. Transfer the strained mushrooms to a cutting board and finely chop them using a chef knife.
Add the poultry stock, fresh rosemary sprigs, and fresh thyme sprigs into the medium saucepan containing the porcini steeping liquid. Set over medium-low heat, bring to a gentle simmer at 90°C (194°F), and keep warm throughout the entire cooking process.
Heat 15 g of rendered goose fat in a large heavy-bottomed Dutch oven over medium-high heat until hot and shimmering at approximately 175°C (347°F).
Season the diced goose meat with 2 g of fine sea salt and 1 g of black pepper, add it to the hot Dutch oven in a single layer, and sear undisturbed for 3 minutes, then turn and sear for another 3 minutes until deeply browned.
Ladle 240 ml of the warm seasoned stock from the saucepan into the Dutch oven with the seared goose meat. Reduce heat to low, cover with a tight-fitting lid, and braise gently at 95°C (203°F) for 25 minutes until the meat is fork-tender and an instant-read food thermometer confirms an internal temperature of at least 74°C (165°F).
While the goose braises, heat 15 ml of olive oil in a medium skillet over medium-high heat at 170°C (338°F). Add the sliced cremini mushrooms in an even layer and cook for 5 minutes, stirring only once halfway through, until deeply browned and moisture has evaporated.
Add the chopped rehydrated porcini mushrooms and minced garlic to the skillet with the cremini mushrooms, sautéing continuously for 1 minute until fragrant. Remove the skillet from heat and set aside.
Transfer the braised goose meat and its cooking juices from the Dutch oven into a clean prep bowl using a slotted spoon or spatula, keeping the Dutch oven over low heat.
Add the remaining 15 g of rendered goose fat to the warm Dutch oven over medium heat at 150°C (302°F). Add the minced shallots and cook for 3 minutes, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until softened and translucent without browning.
Add the dry Carnaroli rice to the shallots in the Dutch oven. Toast the grains over medium heat for 2 minutes, stirring steadily with the wooden spoon, to coat each grain in fat until the grain edges look translucent and the rice smells warm and toasted.
Pour the dry white wine over the toasted rice to deglaze the Dutch oven. Stir constantly for 2 minutes, scraping any browned fond from the bottom, until the wine is fully absorbed and the sharp alcohol aroma dissipates.
Discard the rosemary and thyme sprigs from the simmering stock. Ladle approximately 150 ml of hot stock into the rice, stirring gently in a figure-eight pattern over medium-low heat at 90°C (194°F) until almost completely absorbed. Continue adding stock one ladle at a time for 16 to 18 minutes, allowing the liquid to incorporate before adding more.
Fold the braised goose meat with its reserved juices, the sautéed mushroom mixture, the remaining 4 g of fine sea salt, and the remaining 1 g of black pepper into the risotto. Stir gently over low heat for 2 minutes until evenly distributed and verify the mixture reaches at least 74°C (165°F) on an instant-read food thermometer.
Remove the Dutch oven entirely from the heat source. Add the chilled cubed butter and grated Parmigiano Reggiano, then vigorously beat the risotto with a wooden spoon for 2 minutes to emulsify the fats into the starch liquid, achieving an all'onda (wavy) consistency.
Stir in the finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, cover the Dutch oven with the lid, and let rest off the heat for 1 minute. Ladle into four warmed shallow bowls and serve immediately.
Chef's Notes
- Carnaroli is specifically selected over standard Arborio for this recipe because its superior amylose content withstands the long stir and maintains an intact al dente core alongside the rich, fibrous goose.
- Rendering and using pure goose fat provides a distinct silkiness with a lower melting temperature (32°C/90°F) than beef tallow or butter, resulting in a cleaner, richer mouthfeel across the palate.
- Always pass dried porcini steeping liquid through a fine-mesh sieve or coffee filter. Wild porcini accumulate microscopic sand particles within their gill structures that ruin the velvety texture of risotto.
- The mantecatura requires cold butter straight from the refrigerator. Cold fat droplets incorporate gradually into the hot starch-water matrix, creating a glossy, stable sauce rather than separating into liquid grease.
Storage
Refrigerator: 3 days — Cool rapidly and transfer into an airtight glass or BPA-free container within 2 hours of cooking. Store at or below 4°C (40°F).
Freezer: 1 month — Freezing changes rice starch structure, resulting in a softer texture upon thawing. Best frozen in single portions and repurposed into fried arancini.
Reheating: Reheat refrigerated leftovers in a heavy saucepan over medium-low heat with 45 ml of hot stock or water per serving, stirring continuously until the rice is creamy and the internal temperature reaches at least 74°C (165°F).
Troubleshooting
Risotto is stiff, dense, and sits in a heavy mound rather than flowing like a wave
Cause: The liquid was absorbed too quickly or too little stock was retained before the mantecatura phase.
Fix: Vigorously beat in 45 to 60 ml of hot poultry stock immediately off the heat until the velvety flowing texture is restored.
Prevention: Ensure the risotto looks slightly loose and soupy right before removing from heat, as the rice continues to absorb moisture.
Goose meat feels tough and chewy rather than tender
Cause: Goose leg contains dense collagen and was braised too rapidly or for an insufficient duration.
Fix: If noticed during step 9 before combining with rice, return goose to the Dutch oven with an extra 60 ml of stock, cover tightly, and braise 10 additional minutes until tender.
Prevention: Keep the braising heat strictly at a low simmer below 100°C (212°F) for the full 25 minutes.
Risotto appears dull and separated with a greasy layer on top
Cause: The butter and cheese were stirred into the pot while it was still resting over direct heat, splitting the emulsion.
Fix: Quickly whisk in 30 ml of hot stock or water vigorously to cool the mixture and re-emulsify the fats.
Prevention: Always pull the Dutch oven completely off the stove burner before adding cold butter and grated cheese.
Cultural Context
Risotto with waterfowl has celebrated status across Northern Italy, particularly within the Lomellina flatlands of Lombardy and the marshy river deltas of the Veneto, where goose farming dates back centuries. Mortara is legendary for its historical goose festivals, where every element of the bird is cured, rendered, or braised alongside local superfino rice. This preparation pays homage to autumn harvest traditions by balancing rich game poultry with wild woodland mushrooms and aged alpine cheese.










